Tired of bangin' in your bed? So was I.
That's why I decided it was time to build a bed that would secure all of the shit I always take wheelin'. This article will take you through the steps necessary to replace your stock truck bed with a custom one of your own design.
First, as with any fabrication project, come up with a list of features that you want to incorporate into the final product. For example, do you want storage boxes? a flat bed? long bed or short? Is weight important? What stuff do you want to attach to the bed and where? How much time and money do you want to spend? This is the most critical portion of the project. If you don't know the answer to some of your questions, take some time, do the research, get the answers. An hour at this stage saves three hours in production. When you have a concept in mind, break it down into components to make it more manageable. For example, plan the flatbed portion out first, then the walls, then the tailgate, then the interior storage.
When the planning is done proceed with teardown. For the Stomper that meant tearing the stock bed off. Start with the lights and wiring, then the fuel filler necks, then remove the tailgate. The get at least 4 buddies to come up and pull the bed off the frame. This is a great time to inspect the frame for any damage. Luckily the Stomper frame was in good shape.
With the bed off get a straight piece of steel and lay it down the frame rail. From here you can measure the height of the bed supports. The Stomper has four bed supports that ranged from 2.5" high down to 1.5" to make a level surface. Get the needed steel square tube and cut it to length then drill it to match the holes in the frame. The Stomper flat bed is made of three sheets of ¼" steel that is seam welded together. I did it this way to keep the pieces manageable and because I knew that the battery box on the front right and the wheel wells in the center made clean brake points. Always pay the steel shop the shear the pieces for you so the seams are straight. Lay the floor in place and make sure that everything measures up right. Pull it apart and weld the braces to the floor pieces. Then drill the floor pieces through the same holes that you already have in the braces. Final step is to weld the floor pieces together.
Warning!! When welding on top of your work always be sure to insulate yourself by kneeling on a pallet or rubber mat. Don't become part of the welding circuit!
Also be very careful if you are cutting grinding or welding near the gas tanks which will be hanging off the frame.
After the flatbed is on use one or two bolts to keep it from shifting. I wanted walls and wheel wells so I started by welding a jig for the wheel wells to make sure that the wheel wells are welded together at a uniform angle. With the wells in place I started on the battery box and the basement storage box. Make sure to make any basement storage removable in case of rock damage. Mine bolts off using ¾ inch bolts. I wanted a wall frame that would be tough enough to withstand a collision with trees and rocks so I used 2" square tube by 3/16" inch wall. The rear bumper I welded directly to the bed floor and attached to the frame horns as well. The rear bumper is 10" track iron. With the wall jigs in place I installed the tailgate. The tailgate hinge is 7/8" cold rolled steel bar. The bar penetrates 4 pieces of 2x2" ¼" wall tubing. I drilled and tapped the top of the 7/8 bar and made a pressure cap for it to tension the hinge. Then I put in a weight ramp for the door to sit on when closed. For a latch a piece of bar stack and two sections of pipe. The last thing to install was the compartment doors. Anything with a hinge takes some time. I wanted a flush door with a hidden hinge so I used a piece of bar on the jamb into a piece of pipe on the door. The cut in and shim the latches. I bought the paddle latches at Austin hardware.com for about 10$ each.
With the outer walls and floor in place I built the interior bench jigs. These are 1.5" by 1/16" wall tube. Then cut and paint the filler panels. The panels are 16 gauge steel. Cut it then drill it then prime it and paint it then tek screw it on. This way you can screw on a new panel if the old one is damaged. The bench lids are 10 gauge steel to support some weight. I also welded cleats on to the interior jig to hold down the cooler etc.
Finally, It was time to install and plumb in the aluminum 70 gallon fuel tank that I got from
Transfertank.com . I also wired in a set of 6x9 speakers and the rear taillights. The lights are submersible boat lights from Wal-Mart 39$. The reverse lamps are driving lights also from Wal-Mart. I cut the old factory plugs off the ford bed and wired them directly to the new lights so I could use the original harness. The storage wells are lighted with coleman magnetic tent lights. Whacky used these and they are bright and removable for use around camp. Bedliner sprayed on the floor and inside the compartments and floor jack and chainsaw holders finished the bed off. Also the spare is flush mounted to the floor with room for a second spare on top of the first.
The end result is a heavy bed with all the amenities. I have road tested it this summer and am extremely pleased. All of the tools and supplies can now be packed in an orderly manner and everything is tied down. Also it looks pretty damn cool. The truck holds the weight well and the ride actually improved. The bed materials cost somewhere around two thousand dollars in materials and it took me four solid months to finish so this is not something to be taken on lightly but the results can be worthwhile.
Tools you'll need:
- Mig welder 220v
- metal band saw
- drill press
- torch
- compressor and air tools
- soldering iron
- c clamps
- 4" grinder
- 8" grinder
